One Diner, One Dinner, One Wine...#1

 

Tonight I was alone in my car. Heading home on a cold, wet, wintry evening. Navigating Friday night traffic, while terribly distracted by the meandering memory of a meal that I had eaten weeks before.  It had haunted me during work meetings, upon waking, showering and pottering in the garden. 

I had resisted the call for weeks, but tonight the drumming had become louder and louder until finally I relented. Within minutes I was at the door of Suzie Lucks', an Asian inspired restaurant and bar that entices passers-by with neon lights and a funky vibe. 

I request a small table that overlooks the square. The maitre d' leads me towards the perfect table, away from large chattering groups, to a secluded bench overlooking the outside courtyard. He recognises me from previous bookings and there is an understanding between us as he steers me towards my sanctuary, brings me tap water and the menu. I know exactly what I want without looking, and as I throw off the winter coverings I settle into my cave.

As a young women I had felt discomfort at dining alone. Sensing a judgement from others who saw it as a sign of singledom or a 'no friends' situation. My paranoia may not have been well founded, but that is how it felt as I sat in the many cafes and restaurants surrounded by laughing groups of strangers and gloating couples. A book and notebook, slipped inside my bag, was perfect for such an occasion. It would camouflage my solo situation; allowing me to be the reader, worker, writer of lists or artist. I rarely got through more than a page; as I found the surrounds and fellow diners conversations and performance much more interested.

Over the years I had however learnt to love the solo experience, relishing the liberation and a peace in sitting alone; ordering exactly what you want and taking the time to savour the entire experience; sound, scent, taste, feel. Uninterrupted by polite or unwanted conversation; with only the necessary questions from the waiting staff. The invisible bubble of solitude creating calm in the busiest of cafes.

I had first tasted the dish as part of a feast shared with an old friend, with many delicious options on the table. The wagyu beef tartare stole the show and I vowed to return to enjoy the entire dish for myself.

(photo courtesy of Suzie Lucks' Instagram - demonstrating a selection of dishes, including the wagyu beef tartare top right)

The appearance had captured me first; an interesting and sculptural dish. And as I scooped it into my mouth everything else faded into the background; the company, the restaurant chatter, the music.

So I had returned tonight to go again. A dangerous exploit that has in the past led to disappointment. Never go back. The maitre d' returns and before he can ask for my selection I say...

"There is a wagyu tartare dish. I've been obsessed with it ever since I had it weeks before."

He knows the dish and understands my obsession. It's a favourite of his and he recommends a wine pairing. While I am open to a glass of white, I am wary; protective of the flavours of the main attraction. The wine must in no way detract from the food.

Initially unconvinced by the recommendation, he offers a tasting and subsequently wins me over. Riesling hasn't been my drink of choice for many years, but surprisingly he is right. This Tasmanian riesling is crisp, dry and delicious.

Uberblanc's riesling is made by Tasmanian wine maker, Nick Glaetzer. Produced and bottled by Glaetzer-Dixon family winemakers, they offer a by-appointment only wine tasting that is apparently well worth the effort. It is a perfect accompaniment to the Asian flavours at Suzy Lucks'. I would recommend both the wine and visiting the website that details the history of the wine maker. The tasting room is based in the old ice making factory in Hobart and it's on my list to visit soon. www.gdfwinemakers.com 

By the second judicious mouthful the meal arrives.

Served on a large plate, the dish is flanked by huge transparent rice crackers that are peppered with black sesame seeds. In the centre is a colourful, delicate and textured mound of morsels. On the menu it reads as....wagyu beef tartare + yukhoe + gochujang aioli + pickled Shimeji (enoki mushrooms) + salted egg yolk. Yukhoe is less of an ingredient and more of a type of dish. In this case it is a Korean raw meat dish. 

I recognise some of the ingredients, including the small golden egg yolk that sits gently on top. Stirring it through the tartare completes the aioli that dresses the dish. Informed by my previous experience, I know to combine all the ingredients well, to ensure each scoop offers a touch of everything.

A curious and enjoyable mouth dance, the egg has a slightly salty, sweet creaminess. Long strands of the pickled enoki mushrooms pad against my tongue, bringing pop, chew and an earthiness to the squidginess of the tender beef. Scooping peppery mouthfuls with broken shards of crackers. The flavour and crunchy texture a crucial component of this delicious concoction.

I recognise the perfectly cubed beef and delicate crunchy enoki mushrooms, but the remainder of ingredients are a mystery. They are fragrant, with a subtle bite and a touch of citrus...perhaps. All combine in the gochujang ailoli; a creamy Korean sauce, which derides its spicey flavour from Gochujang (Korean chilli paste). The riesling perfectly complements and cuts through the cubed fatty meat and creamy dressing.

Do you like what you do? I want to ask the maitre d' when he discreetly enquires as to whether I am enjoying the meal. I momentarily reminisce about my early years in hospitality; the joy, chaos and flow of a good night on the floor; serving tables, chatting with diners and kitchen banter. On a busy night, the unmatchable buzz of a well-oiled machine. Another benefit of dining alone; time to contemplate and reminisce.

He knows to leave me alone with the fresh flavours; umami, sweetness and a hint of sour as I take my final bites, running my finger around the bowl to scoop up every bit. Unfazed by social norms or etiquette. I think the chef would approve. 

This is a dining adventure enjoyed solo, or shared with a trusted culinary comrade. An atmosphere created by a restaurant that offers bench seats to view the outside world and a maitre d' accomplished in their role. And just quietly, he does a pretty intense but refreshing chilly cucumber cocktail. Not for the faint hearted, but yet another interesting experience. 

After all, isn't that what food is about; either sustenance or an experience, enjoyed alone or in company. Those memorable dishes that become shared stories with loved ones. The pork wellington at Elm Cottage in Launceston with a man in a white suit who thought he liked me, a moreton bay bug birthday dinner comped by my manager at a seaside restaurant in Toogoom QLD, or an alternative leaders dinner at Launceston's Calabrisella with Year 12 mates, almost 40 years ago. Some are closed, some are changed, most are unrecognisable, but like Mum's lamb stew the flavour memory lingers.

I have since returned twice more to savour this dish at Suzie Lucks'. Each time brings something slightly different and it remains a favourite https://suzielucks.com.au/